Paris, France
The Islands
Sunday, January 30th

We didn't do as well as we had hoped to waking up on Sunday.  I think it was around 10:30 before we actually got up.  Oh well, it was our vacation!  We took the Metro downtown and surfaced at Châtelet.  (Hint du jour - it has been suggested that you bring a compass with you to help navigate when surfacing from the Metro.  DO IT!  It'll make navigating your day a little easier)

Like the day before, this seemed a little more like an exploratory day, rather than a focused one where we had a list of places to hit.  Our first stop was to visit Notre Dame (Metro: Cite).  Enjoyed wandering around the Church.  I think a typical pose in there is standing there while leaning back with your head facing the heavens as you admire the stained glass and vaulting.  Truly beautiful work.  I have had conversations with people who attack the Catholic Church of the Middle Ages for taking so much labor and money to build these churches, but we really came to appreciate the fact that these projects and others like them really gave artisans of the time an opportunity to perfect their crafts.  I found it amazing just looking at the masonry, trying to figure out how they were able to create something so graceful.  One thing that we did not enjoy was this special exhibit they have set up behind the alter depicting the Christ Child story.  Although the topic was obviously appropriate for the setting, the presentation truly felt like someone was trying to copy the architectural style and presentation of "It's a Small World" at Disney.  It was pretty bad and wasn't worth the "suggested donation" they insisted on.  I would have preferred if they just asked us straight out for a donation.

And then the adventure continued - climbing to the bell towers for the view.  It's worth the effort!  It took a little while as we didn't want to push my wife's endurance level.  The only problem I found afterward is that due to the corkscrew nature of the stairs, one leg gets a much harder work out than the other!  The view, well, it was breath-taking.  One of the things I liked about it over the Eiffel Tower or the Arch is that you have all of the gargoyles keeping you company!  The other thing we were mesmerized by were the resident falcons.  Apparently there are three or four pairs of falcons who reside in Notre Dame.  It was amazing watching the speed and grace of their flight.  After making our way back down and heading towards Ile St. Louis, we saw what I think is one of the most beautiful views of the church - from behind, capturing all the spires and flying buttresses.

Next stop, treat time!  On the recommendation of a friend, we stopped in for a bite to eat at
Berthillon (31, rue de St-Louis-en-l'Ile), right across the bridge on Ile St. Louis.  WOW!  What incredible hot chocolate, sorbet and crepes!  Here's a hint on how to make your hot chocolate that we wish we had been told prior to our trip.  Pour the melted chocolate into your cup, then put in some sugar before adding the steamed milk.  Sadly, no one told us about the sugar part and the first hot chocolate was not exactly a religious experience.  NOTE - If you go here during warmer months, their ice cream is wonderful.

After leaving Berthillon, we wandered around the Ile St. Louis for an hour or so, poking our heads into some of the shops.  This worked out wonderfully as a scouting expedition as we were able to come back towards the end of our trip and hit the stores we wanted, minimizing the amount of sheer tonnage I'd have to tote back to the Hotel.  Although the island isn't very large, there are some really neat shops that definitely deserve a visit - not touristy souvenir shops, with a good percentage of artsy-stores. 

After a romantic stroll down the Seine, we began our quest to find our restaurant for dinner.  The same friend who recommended Berthillon, recommended this place, but unfortunately couldn't remember the name, just noting that "you cross the Pont Neuf, (heading to the Left Bank), turn left and head upriver towards Place St. Michel."  She described it as a little wine bar, yet we managed to walk past it three times before realizing she was referring to L'Ecluse (15, Quai des Grands-Augustins - 75006, 01 46 33 58 74).  THIS was our kind of place!  Cozy and unpretentious, with mostly Parisians dining there (despite the proximity to all the tourist locations on Ile de Paris and the Latin Quarter).  Monyka's recommendation was to order whatever was the special, which my wife promptly did (a shrimp and rice dish), while I wanted to satiate my need for foie gras, carpaccio, and other more quintessential French cuisine.  The coup de grace for this restaurant, however, was its wine list.   ALL they serve are Bordeaux, many of which you can order by the glass.  The list ran from run of the mill vin de pays to premier cru (Chateau Haut Brion) and had vintages going back as far as the early 80's.  After a scrumptious dessert (HIGHLY recommend their gateau au chocolat), our total bill was UNDER US$60!  As I said, my kind of place - great food, décor, service (they have menus in English if you need it), wines, and prices in a great location.

From there, we took the Metro back to the hotel to prepare for our next adventure the next day.

Tomorrow: Disneyland Paris