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Touring The Loire Valley Muscadet
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Located southwest of Nantes in Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu, Saint-Philibert-de-Grand-Lieu is one of almost two-dozen winemaking villages on the shores of the Lac de Grand Lieu. On the southeastern shore of the lake, Saint-Philibert-de-Grand-Lieu provides an excellent haven from the more touristy areas with a twelve hundred year old abbey and soothing places around the lake to relax and enjoy the French countryside.
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Built by the Dukes of Brittany in the 1400's, the Château des Ducs de Bretagne (4, place Marc-Elder, Ph 02 40 41 56 56) still exudes the sense of dominance it established six hundred years ago, with its imposing moat still surrounding the fortress. Also called the Château of Nantes, this is where Henri IV signed the Edict of Nantes in 1598, giving Protestants freedom of religion for the next eighty-three years.
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Château des Ducs de Bretagne
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The fortress has three museums in it, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the Musée des Arts Populaire, and the Musée des Salorge (devoted to naval history and the history of shipping in Nantes). The Cathédral St-Pierre is one of the last Gothic cathedrals built in Europe and took almost four hundred years to complete. Despite its ponderous exterior, the interior provides a soaring sensation with a pipe organ that seems to complete the Gothic Cathedral experience.
To see the extent of impact that the shipping of Nantes had on the city over the years, visit the Musée d'Histoire Naturelle that has an extensive exhibit of flora and fauna that has been brought back by ships over the centuries. Also, Nantes' favorite son, Jules Verne, has a museum dedicated to him, Musée Jules Verne (3, rue de l'Hermitage, Ph. 011 33 02 40 69 72 52.)
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Click on the icon above to return to the main website.
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Located about 10 kilometers directly east of Nantes, you'll find the Château de Goulaine (Ph: 011 33 2 40 54 91 42). Rebuilt in the 15th century on the remains of a Medieval fortress, its history is united with that of the family that has continually lived in the chateau (except between 1788 and 1858). It is open for visitors and sells wines made from the Château's vineyards. The town's website (in French) is at www.mairie-haute-goulaine.fr.
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Ten kilometers southeast of Nantes is the Site des Cavernes. This break from the wine route takes you back millennia to view prehistoric caves.
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One of the most beautiful towns in the Lower Loire Valley, Clisson often gives the sensation that you are actually in Tuscany! In the late 1700's two prominent Frenchmen settled in Clisson after living in Italy for an extended period. As the town was in some state of disrepair, the brothers rebuilt the town in a style reflecting the Italian Romantic period.
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Clisson Castle was first constructed in the 13th century by William of Clisson, also known as William the Young. At this time the entire town was surrounded by a wall. In the 14th century, Oliver III reinforced the castle, which was threatened by the English. He raised a second keep of five storeys on the south rampart of the wall. Clisson Castle thus became a redoubtable fortress, a veritable bar to the south of the Duchy of Brittany. Toward the end of the 15th century, Francis II, the Duke of Brittany, worked on enlarging Clisson Castle considerably.
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During the summer, Clisson has an impressive son et lumiére show (summer shows on the grounds of many chateaux with all forms of pageantry, costumes, music, and lights). More on-line information may be found at the town's website, www.clisson.com.
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The unofficial capital of the Muscadet wine region, the Château La Noë is not only a beautiful building to visit, but also an impressive winery to sample. On the third weekend of March, they celebrate Le Foire aux Vins.
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On the first weekend in March, there is a Wine Fair here.
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Halfway between Ancenis and Clisson, this is a great stop if you have children on your trip. The Zoo de Doué (Ph: 02-41-59-18-58) has deer, emus, and monkeys roaming around the old limestone quarries. The zoo's website is at www.zoo-boissiere.com.
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Located on the northern bank of the Loire River, Ancenis is based around the Château d'Ancenis, which was built in the 15th century and was the location where Brittany formally entered the Kingdom of France when Louis IX and Francois I signed a treaty. Ancenis is a lovely town to spend the afternoon wondering around in.
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Located three or four miles south of the Loire River, Chaudefonds-sur-Loire is the site of hot baths that date back to the Renaissance.
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The Château de Serrant (Ph: 011-33-02-41-39-13-01) is about seventeen kilometers southwest of Angers. Dating back to the 16th century, this château has beautiful gardens and tapestries that are worth stopping to see.
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