Leaving Bingen, there are three Medieval castles before you reach the town of Trechingshausen: Burg Rheinstein, Burg Reichenstein, and Burg Sooneck.  Built up on the stony cliffs overlooking the Rhine, these fortresses quickly transport you back across the centuries as they have displays of art, weapons, and furnishings.  They all serve snacks and wines, but Burg Reichenstein serves full meals.  Online information is available at http://www.burg-rheinstein.de/.

A classic medieval town on the Rhine, this a great place to break for lunch and then wander around town.  The town is surrounded by medieval ring walls and is visually dominated by a high Gothic church built over 700 years ago.  High above Bacharach is Stahleck Castle, one of the most famous medieval Rhine castles.  There is a legend here that in the year 1194, love conquered over the endless rivalry between the Guelfs and the Staufers when the niece of Emperor Barbarossa married the son of Henry the Lion, against the wishes of his father.

In early October, this is the place to be for their Winzerfest (Wine Festival).

Schloss Pfalzgradenstein (or Pfaltz, as it is locally known) is actually in the middle of the Rhein.  A five-sided tower that was later enclosed in a wall, the sparse décor and furnishings of the Pfaltz gives a more accurate depiction of what life was like in the Middle Ages.  To get there, you take a ferry from the town of Kaub.  Make sure you do not miss the views of the fortress while on the water, as that is where you will get the best views.

Despite being the site of the first artillery bombardment on the Rhine in 1390, Oberwesel has over 75% of its towers and walls still intact.  This emphasizes Oberwesel's the façade of its medieval history.  Even the churches in this town are built more like a fortress than a church.  Oberwesel holds two wine festivals in September.

The castle ruins of Burg Rheinfels (Ph: 06741 383) overlooking St. Goar are all that remain from the fortress that made St. Goar the best fortified on the Rhein Valley.  Originally the home of knights who used it to force tolls from river traffic, construction was originally begun in 1245, it was a military fixture on the river until 1797, when the French obliterated it with artillery fire.  Despite the destruction, the castle still is well worth the stop to explore the ruins and accompanying museum, which has an accurate mode of what the castle was like at its peak. 

In September, St. Goar is a key point in the regions annual Rhine In Flames festival.

Located across the river from St. Goar (there is a ferry connecting the two towns), St. Goarshausen reflects the regional bickering through the Middle Ages, as regional political powers built opposing castles to protect their interests and to collect tolls from the river.  Two of these fortresses remain, Katz and Maus.  Today, Katz is not open to the public, but there is a beautiful terrace café overlooking the river at Maus (Ph: 011 49 06741 2011).  St. Goarshausen is also the site where tradition says the beautiful nymph, Lorelei, sat and lured sailors to their death in the rapids under the steep slate cliff where she sat. 

Burg Maus

Originally built by the Romans in the 4th century, Boppard is a history/archaeology buff's dream.  Depending where you are in the town, you can see remnants of the Roman era at the archaeological park near the railroad tracks or at the baths found underneath the Church of St Severus.  For one of the most impressive views of the Rhine, take the Sesselbahn (chair lift) uphill to the Vierseenblick, where the horseshoe bend of the Rhine actually make it appear like a series of lakes.  For those looking to burn off a few calories, there is a beautiful hiking trail that starts just north of town and heads north about 6 miles to Spay.  Boppard celebrates its grape harvest every year in late September, just before the actual harvest begins.

Located on the eastern bank, the fortress of Marksburg (Ph: 011 49 02627 206) is located a few miles north of Braubach.  This 12th century schloss is in impeccable conditions with extensive gardens done up in medieval style.  The view, especially when looking up river is quite breathtaking.

Founded by the Romans in 9 AD, Koblenz is strategically located where the Rhine and Mosel Rivers meet.  The most important feature of the city is actually on the east bank of the river, the Felsenfestung Ehrenbreitstein.  The largest fortress in Europe, this schloss offers a breathtaking view of both rivers from its vantage point 400 feet above the river.  This fortress played important roles in the Middle Ages, during Napoleonic times, and then again in the twentieth century (in the Treaty of Versailles, it specifically stipulates that this fortress can never be used for military purposes).  Today, it houses the Landesmuseum, (Ph: 0261 97030), where there are exhibits on wine growing and local industry.

Koblenz is another town that is nice to just wander around in.  Two areas to make sure you include are the Rheinanlagen (Rhein Gardens) and the Altstadt.  The Rheinanlagen is a 6-mile promenade that stretches along the Rhine.  It ends at the Deutsches Eck, or German corner, which is where the two rivers actually meet.  The Altstadt, or Old Town, is filled with quaint old alleys and numerous old buildings that have been maintained in excellent condition.

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